If I had a hammer-drill...
Feb. 22nd, 2009 10:39 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
feng_shui_houseWoke up at 5:30 --dawn over a cardboard box factory lacks a certain amount of poetry. Have been working on the window.
EDIT: Screws all in and have applied the first coat of joint compound over the wood/gaps. Have finished charging both batteries & brushed everything clean to return to George in better condition than when lent to me. Need bath. Need long, hot bath. Need long hot bath in chocolate. I shall go make myself into a dessert fondue.
1) The hammer-drill works much better with a fully charged battery.
2) Using my regular drill to drive in screws is a bad idea. It drove two of them in too tightly to be removed, but not all the way in. (Am using racheting screwdriver instead.)
3) Sawing the sticking out part of screws is way tedious.
4) Putting thin band of masking tape on drill-bit at the depth of the screw makes it a heck of a lot easier to tell when the hole is the right depth. (Quilter's tape is perfect.)
5) The hammer drill is chuckless- this means you are to hand-tighten the bit. Note: Normal hand-tighten for your average guy = tighten until your jaws ache for an out of shape female.
6) Watch the tape to see if the bit starts moving back into the drill- if it does, then pause and adjust the bit and re-tighten.
7) The drill bit gets SCALDING HOT.
8) Try really, really hard to hold the drill at right angles to the hole. You can't actually DO THIS because the drill vibrates up and down, back and forth, round and round, like a carousel horse. But the straighter the better- less chance of reaming the hole out too big, or too crooked.
9) Back the drill a little out while drilling to allow more cement dust to escape quicker and more chance for the drill bit to cool a little.
10) Stop entirely and let the drill & bit cool completely at least once half way through drilling these long holes.
11) Have other projects to work on while waiting for bit to cool. (Polishing pool ladder, doing laundry, writing this post.)
12) If you don't apply any pressure, it's not going to cut. If you apply too much pressure, it will bind up and suddenly NOT be holding the drill bit.
13) When it stops holding the drill bit, it will take tedious unscrewing with a pair of pliers to get the drill bit out of the wall.
14) NO matter how careful you are, the drill bit is going to become dulled. And bent if you are working at a really bad angle- like upside down inside a window casement. Good thing I bought two bits, but the bendy isn't much yet, so I'm going to keep using the first bit until it causes problems.
15) Holding the drill upside down and pushing it makes your hands and arms up to the shoulder ache.
16) Even with eye protection, watch the cement dust.
17) Doves chocolates dipped in peanut butter restore my personal battery.
EDIT: Screws all in and have applied the first coat of joint compound over the wood/gaps. Have finished charging both batteries & brushed everything clean to return to George in better condition than when lent to me. Need bath. Need long, hot bath. Need long hot bath in chocolate. I shall go make myself into a dessert fondue.
1) The hammer-drill works much better with a fully charged battery.
2) Using my regular drill to drive in screws is a bad idea. It drove two of them in too tightly to be removed, but not all the way in. (Am using racheting screwdriver instead.)
3) Sawing the sticking out part of screws is way tedious.
4) Putting thin band of masking tape on drill-bit at the depth of the screw makes it a heck of a lot easier to tell when the hole is the right depth. (Quilter's tape is perfect.)
5) The hammer drill is chuckless- this means you are to hand-tighten the bit. Note: Normal hand-tighten for your average guy = tighten until your jaws ache for an out of shape female.
6) Watch the tape to see if the bit starts moving back into the drill- if it does, then pause and adjust the bit and re-tighten.
7) The drill bit gets SCALDING HOT.
8) Try really, really hard to hold the drill at right angles to the hole. You can't actually DO THIS because the drill vibrates up and down, back and forth, round and round, like a carousel horse. But the straighter the better- less chance of reaming the hole out too big, or too crooked.
9) Back the drill a little out while drilling to allow more cement dust to escape quicker and more chance for the drill bit to cool a little.
10) Stop entirely and let the drill & bit cool completely at least once half way through drilling these long holes.
11) Have other projects to work on while waiting for bit to cool. (Polishing pool ladder, doing laundry, writing this post.)
12) If you don't apply any pressure, it's not going to cut. If you apply too much pressure, it will bind up and suddenly NOT be holding the drill bit.
13) When it stops holding the drill bit, it will take tedious unscrewing with a pair of pliers to get the drill bit out of the wall.
14) NO matter how careful you are, the drill bit is going to become dulled. And bent if you are working at a really bad angle- like upside down inside a window casement. Good thing I bought two bits, but the bendy isn't much yet, so I'm going to keep using the first bit until it causes problems.
15) Holding the drill upside down and pushing it makes your hands and arms up to the shoulder ache.
16) Even with eye protection, watch the cement dust.
17) Doves chocolates dipped in peanut butter restore my personal battery.
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no subject
Date: 2009-02-22 08:46 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-02-22 08:50 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-02-22 10:24 pm (UTC)That sounded like hard work there.
no subject
Date: 2009-02-22 10:28 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-02-22 11:45 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-02-22 11:52 pm (UTC)(*piled higher and deeper. This follows my degree is B.S. and then M.B.S.)
no subject
Date: 2009-02-23 06:56 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-02-23 01:53 pm (UTC)