Paperback bookcase design sketches
Jun. 17th, 2009 02:16 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
Sketch #1 The bit with the curved top is shown as transparent. I was thinking one thick plank piece flat on the bottom with one thin plywood piece nailed into it, with thin strips nailed into the plywood to provide a place to nail smaller pieces, and then the side piece to cover it. I considered castors on the bottom.
And then I said, way too much sawing of thick planks. And do I really want to bend down to the floor to get a book?
Sketch #2 Subunits of plank, with other smaller planks on the side & plywood scrap divider nailed in the middle. The last shelf to be raised, so I can store larger stuff beneath.
And then I said, but I can't nail into the divider from the top AND the bottom, so some parts will just be floating around loose. Bump into it & there could be a cascade of ouch.
Sketch #3 Dowels! Drill holes & dowels can hold the leg support sections on each level. Divider would only be fastened on the top of each level.
And then I said, but drilling a dowel hole straight up and down exactly centered to match on the legs is not a job to be done by hand. I COULD buy a drill jig (saw one today, in fact), but do I really want one more tool to pack?
Sketch#4 To hell with leg supports on each level. Use a length long enough to do the whole thing in one go. Nail the planks to the supports & the plywood dividers to the top of each level. How strong does it need to be for a disposable thing to hold paperbacks mostly?
Sketch#5 AHA! As I was taking down metal shelf supports it occurred to me that this U-shaped metal with pre-drilled screw-holes would be a HECK of a lot easier to screw down on the shelf-planks & then the plywood dividers could fit in! (Have not measured to see the feasibility of this, but I have hope). EDIT: Just tried a scrap of plywood into a metal support & it fit in *exactly* - snug but not difficult to get in- here's hoping the rest of the plywood & metal are the same dimensions.
I have various sizes of plywood scrap leftover from the guys redoing my soffits, including a number of triangular bits, which I thought could be made to fit at the ends of the shelves.
So, #5 currently looks doable. (But could mutate when I actually start.)
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Date: 2009-06-17 08:21 pm (UTC)Actually, if the wood is thin & extends out to either side of the wire for several inches, I can just use the weight of books on one side of it to hold it.
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Date: 2009-06-17 08:26 pm (UTC)Designing stuff is fun. Hope it works. Now I am going to start tiling. *pooh*. :^) Thanks for your input.
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Date: 2009-06-18 12:26 am (UTC)I think I'm gonna use some really thick pieces of wood for the 'legs' so it'll be ok. I've got some *cough* reclaimed studs. I treated myself to two new 'double action' handsaws today (they cut on both the push & pull stroke) so hopefully the thicker wood won't drive me nuts. I also treated myself to a pair of good cutting pliers with special leverage action- cuts through wire in one snip that I was having to mangle for a minute or more. Good tools are lovely. *pets them*
I figure even if the bookcases are *total disasters* at least I'll be able to get the trash men to take them, as they'll take any kind of furniture on the once monthly bulk pick up, but will NEVER take lumber.
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Date: 2009-06-18 12:06 am (UTC)McGyver would appear to be your middles name :¬D
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